A view of the sunset near the Southernmost Point.
I’m back in Miami after an eleven day trip to Key West that, for one reason or another, felt more like an eternity. Key West was home for many years, and I still make regular visits back. This time, I was there to work on the event staff of the Key West Literary Seminar. I rented a cute little cottage near the Southernmost Point and settled back into my former island lifestyle. Since I’m no longer a full time resident, I find myself trying to fill my visits with as much variety as possible. This time, however–perhaps, due to the eternal duration of my stay–I found myself returning to a few spots more than once, at first reluctantly, but then I just accepted the fact that these were my spots, and they always had been.
It made me think of one of my favorite Bob Marley songs Do It Twice because “baby, you’re so nice, I’d like to do the same thing twice.” My affection for reggae music–Bob Marley, Junior Gong, Katchafire, Fiji–definitely developed during my days in Key West. There’s something about those carefree melodies that resonate when you’re out on a boat miles from shore. So here are my Key West spots that, last week, were so nice, I had to do them twice. Press play on the video below for a little soundtrack while you read.
During one of the busier days of the seminar, I found myself concocting a plan to run to Help Yourself for a quick, healthy lunch. Having once lived just a block down the road on Margaret Street, I used to frequent Help Yourself for breakfast on my days off. They’re an all natural, organic restaurant committed to locally sourced ingredients and environmentally conscious production. They also make an amazing non-dairy coconut yogurt parfait with homemade granola and fresh fruit like kiwis, strawberries, and pineapple. For lunch that day, I opted for half a hummus wrap made with quinoa tabouli, cucumber, red onion, sprouts, and greens, along with the tropical green smoothie, a blend of pineapple, mango, banana, cucumber, cilantro, spinach, and lime. On a hot summer day in Key West, the smoothie’s lunch enough.
So what happened the next day when I wanted another quick, healthy lunch? I went back to Help Yourself to do the same thing twice. And later in the week when a friend suggested we meet there for lunch? I joined him and ordered the Key West coconut curry, a fragrant, creamy broth made with fresh coconut milk, served with brown rice and bright, fresh vegetables. To drink? I couldn’t resist the $6 local Key West coconut water. Ridiculous, I know, but worth it.
When it came time for an evening to catch up with one of my bestest and oldest girlfriends, we went where we always go, nine one five. A two-story, sky blue Victorian mansion with a spacious wraparound porch, the menu is filled with sophisticated small plates, along with larger dishes like a crispy Thai whole yellowtail snapper. That evening, we ordered a beef carpacio, beet salad, tuna tartare, and the tuna dome–an all time favorite dish of mine consisting of sashimi tuna over crab meat with sliced avocado, lemon miso, and sriracha. We also drank plenty of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.
On Friday, after the conclusion of the seminar’s evening program, where did the staff decide to eat and drink? Back at nine one five, upstairs at their speakeasy Point5. There’s a fancy cocktail menu, thin crust pizzas, and a relaxed, yet lively atmosphere that never seems to get old. We gathered around a few tables on the upstairs balcony, and I split the spicy Hawaiian pizza (crispy pancetta, pineapples, jalapeños) and the Mexican pizza (slow roasted chipotle pork, guacamole, lime creme fraiche) with a new friend. I don’t even remember what we were drinking that night, but everything was delicious. On my final night in town, starving and exhausted, I ordered the spicy Hawaiian to go.
Of all my old Key West haunts, Bad Boy Burrito is probably the one I miss most. It’s another all natural, organic, local ingredients kind of a place. I’m a lover of Mexican food and rice and beans to begin with, and I especially love a meal that’s wholly satisfying while still being healthy, and Bad Boy fits the bill. I headed over for a late lunch one afternoon and ordered the usual, a tofu burrito with basmati rice and black beans, pico de gallo, verde sauce, cabbage, queso fresco, avocado, and jalapenos. Delicious. On a busy day during the seminar when the staff ordered in from Bad Boy, I got the exact same thing. They also make an amazing taco plate with homemade soft corn tortillas filled with anything from fresh caught fish, to Key West pink shrimp, to chicken, or kobe beef.
Cafe Moka is actually a new spot for me in Key West and it’s become my pop-up office space on extended visits. After all, every writer needs a good coffee shop to call her own. It has a European patisserie feel, serving pain au chocolate, croissants, and quiche to compliment your morning cappuccino. Lunchtime is just as delicious with roast beef and cheddar cheese on a fresh baguette and other sandwiches. I must admit, I have a weakness for all things French, and croissants are at the top of that list, so it’s no wonder Cafe Moka has become a natural part of my daily routine while in Key West. On top of that, the staff is friendly and they make it a comfortable spot to linger in for a few hours in front of your laptop with your coffee. Even Bob Marley sings, “Every morning I get up, I sip my cup.”
I think I’ve always loved Do It Twice because it’s a little bittersweet, a little lonesome, and a little unrequited while also being completely joyful, and maybe that’s a good way to describe my feelings for Key West, a little complicated, but full of love. If you listened to the song once while reading this, maybe you should scroll back up and listen to it twice. It’s so nice.
